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From age 7 to 77  (and even before and after!!)


     Jupe Bambou ceinture   Jupe Bambou entière   Jupe Bambou ourlet


The Bamboo skirt is quick and simple to make but it's the little details, like the shirred waist band and decorative stitched hems, that are adaptable to suit your fancy. And what's more the instructions given are for both child and adult so you can produce mother-daughter versions in  a very short time.

What you'll need:


→ Fabric: the length will entirely depend on the length of skirt you want to make. We encourage you to first draw the pattern to easily measure the necessary length.


→ A spool of elastic thread.


→ Optional: paper to draw your pattern (large sheet of tracing paper, paper tablecloth...) You can, of course, trace out directly onto your fabric, just be careful to read the explanations carefully so as not to risk ruining it.


Recommended fabrics: the same as those for the version 2 of our Bambou trousers: light to mid-weight cotton, linen, double gauze.


The instructions are the same for all sizes, child or adult.



First of all, a couple of calculations to trace the pattern:


1. Begin by measuring your hips around the widest part and add 8 cm ease.

→ For my version, hips measurement = 100 cm.

100 + 8 = 108 cm

To get the width of fabric required we need to divide this measurement by 2: 108/2 = 54 cm


2. Next, measure the length that you want your skirt to be (take this roughly from the level of your navel). → You can make a mini, midi or maxi skirt, as you wish. 

→ I 'd like mine to be about mid-thigh length so I've chosen 43 cm.


3. To get a straight skirt, you just need to add 1 cm seam allowance on each side edge and 7 mm for the hems at the top and bottom.


4. On your paper, draw a rectangle of the calculated width and length:

→ For my version, 54 cm wide and 43 cm long.


5. Cut two rectangles corresponding to the final dimensions from your fabric.  

Formule patron jupe Bambou

How to make the skirt:

6. Overcast all the edges of the rectangles with a zigzag stitch or with a serger.


7. Right sides together, pin and sew the two sides of the skirt. You will have created a tube. Press the seam allowances open.


8. Maintain the seam allowances at the top of the skirt open with stitches for about 9 cm (see the sketch at step 10).


9. To create the hems, fold inwards and press at 7 mm. (To better visualise where the raw edge should come to, you can mark all around the inside of the skirt at 1.4 cm from the edge).


10. Select your chosen decorative stitch and sew the hem at 5 mm from the folded edge.

Scallop stitch: Point de feston


The seam allowances on the inside top of your skirt should look like this:

(here, I finished the edge with a scallop stitch) →

Jupe Bambou ourlet feston


11. Repeat steps 9 and 10  to create the hem of the skirt.


12. All that remains is to shirr the waistband of your skirt. Be careful to work on the top edge of the skirt – that is the side in which the seam allowances are held open with stitches.


For those who have already made the version 2 of our Bambou trousers, you will recognise the following instructions for creating the waistband.


Set up your sewing machine for shirring: Hand wind the bobbin with elastic sewing thread. Try not to over stretch the elastic but it should not be wound loosely. Regular thread is used through the needle and the stitch length is lengthened to 4. Make a test swatch of the  stitches on off-cuts of your fabric and make notes of your machine settings.


13. Work with the right side of the fabric facing.  Secure the beginning and end of the first row with a few backstitches.  

Keep the fabric flat in front of the needle and avoid pulling the fabric from behind the presser foot.

Do not cut the threads when you arrive back at the beginning of the line of stitches!


14. Leave the needle at it's lowest position and pivot the fabric. Stitch for 1 cm and pivot the fabric again to align the  presser foot with the last row of shirring to guide the next row. (It may be necessary to reset your needle position to the left, in which case, first raise the needle.) Secure the beginnings and ends of each row with a few backstitches. 


15. Continue being guided by the last row of stitching to complete 7 rows of shirring.  Pull the threads to the wrong side, tie off and trim the threads. 


Side view of the skirt:

Ceinture haut jupe Bambou


16. Carefully press your skirt but avoid the waistband which can be sensitive to direct heat.


BRAVO ! You have finished your skirt !!!



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Comfortable and stylish for any occasion.


We wanted to create the kind of pants that all kids like wearing. With its high waist and wide legs, Bambou is suitable for all activities and all styles. Girls and boys will appreciate being able to move in complete freedom!

The inserts of version 1 bring a touch of discreet originality; or less discreet if you decide to mix various colours or fabrics or to add decorative top-stitchings...

The elastic shirring at the waist and ankles of version 2 feminise this version. Its style will vary depending on the fabric from getting snug on a lazy Sunday morning, a zen yoga spirit, or even dreamy and exotic 1001 nights.


Pénélope et Léontine


Our adorable Pénélope is wearing version 2 of the trousers sewn in a dark-blue lightweight cotton.


The gorgeous Léontine is wearing version 1 of Bambou with discreet panels in a middleweight cotton of pink with white flowers.



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The wardrobe basic of all little girls


Timeless and adaptable for all seasons this A-line dress is a girl's first choice all year round.


Its knee-length and flared cut allows free movement so your child can go on playing, jumping, running, dancing.... The extra detail of the pockets in version 2 are always appreciated for hiding small secrets.


Finally, the dress being completely reversible, your child can choose for herself which side she wants to wear while you, of course can expand your creations and her wardrobe by combining elements from both versions.


Acacia photo 1 Acacia photo 2 Acacia photo 3  


Here, our little model is wearing version 1 with added pockets and fastens with press studs at the shoulders. It has a small vent on the back neckline and ties with pretty ribbons.


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Take Note! Is designed to help you keep a record of your project and brings together three main ideas: the fabric and haberdashery (or notions) needed to make your garment, the sewing machine accessories and your sewing machine settings.

Download here

You will soon notice that it is based on the right choice of fabric for the project  - it's the first step to success. Different fabrics have different requirements in terms of handling, needles and threads.


The first section


Take notes 1


The first section helps you to consider the fabric and haberdashery that you will need to create your garment. Begin with the fabric suggested on the pattern envelope. We will guide you in terms of material and its weight, its movement or it's drape. The notion of 'drape' may seem a little vague for anyone new to sewing but generally, in woven fabrics it refers to the tightness or looseness of the weave (in knit fabrics, think of the thickness or bulk of the yarn). The tighter the weave of a fabric, the more threads it has and the stiffer it becomes, compared with a loosely woven fabric which has fewer threads and so is more “fluid”.  A needle passes easily through a loosely woven fabric and gathers and loose folds are created effortlessly giving garments a more casual look.  A stronger needle is necessary to pass through a tightly woven fabric and it is difficult to gather so this type of fabric is best suited for pleats and more formal lines.  For example: our trouser pattern  “Bambou” is designed for comfort and ample movement so we recommend a light to medium-weight fabric. A densely woven fabric would alter the characteristic of the design and result in a more balloon effect or clown pants – which is fine if that is the effect you intend to create.  This example also shows that with one and the same sewing pattern you can find yourself with a garment in a wide range of styles. 

So here we go! Fabric(s): Describe your fabric in terms of fabric content, width (between the selvedge edges), its weight or drape (lightweight, fluid, medium weight...), pattern design (ethnic, flowers, plain...) and colour. Don't forget to include lining fabrics if they are required.


Thread(s): You will not only need to consider the fabric here but also the construction process. So, for example, when sewing the main seams together, a matching thread (or slightly darker) is called for. However, you may choose a contrasting colour for top stitching, in which case, will you want a spool of top-stitching thread or would you prefer to simply double your thread? Will you need an elastic thread for shirring? Would you like to add a little decorative touch to a collar with a beautiful embroidery thread. We would advise you not to overload your  work with too many details – it can look fussy and confusing. Remember the adage “Less is More”!


Support: Interfacing is used to permanently reinforce and support areas in a garment. The most common form is fusible interfacing and your choice depends on the weight of your fabric. So, a medium weight interfacing is not appropriate for a very lightweight fabric. Stabilisers are used to temporarily support your fabric for appliqué work or embroidery. There is a wide variety of forms available: tear away, soluble, cut away and sprays.


Elastic: Make a note of the type (braided, woven, knit…) and width. Both are usually specified on the pattern. Note: Transparent tape and rubber elastic are also used to reinforce areas such as  shoulders in knit fabrics.


Other haberdashery: zip fastener – separating or closed? What length?  Buttons, how many? Are they age appropriate?  Ribbon – matching or contrasting? How long?  Bias …. You get the idea.


Keep a separate note (in a book) of all your ideas which surface from this section, especially the ones you didn't choose for this particular project - it's a fascinating record of your creative process at work and a great source for inspiration for later projects!




The second part


Take notes 2


The second part deals with the accessories for your sewing machine: needles, presser feet and  bobbins.

Needles: The size and the type of needle required is determined by the fabric type or its use (Universal, Jeans, Stretch, leather, Top stitching, Embroidery and so on). As a general rule, the heavier the fabric, the higher the needle size. There is nothing preventing you from adding different elements to your creation (leather patches, lace insert …) but remember to take these into account when you are thinking about the needles.


Presser feet: It is the construction process that determines which presser feet you will need (zip fastener insertion, buttonholes binding, rolled hem …) The market for sewing machine accessories, particularly presser feet, has exploded in recent years (due to the interest and revival in home sewing). We can now find an enormous selection of presser feet designed for specific tasks which give a highly professional finish (not to mention, increased sewing pleasure ;) ).


Bobbins: For sewing with elastic sewing thread if you intend shirring the fabric. For top stitching with a contrasting colour. It is much easier and less wasteful to have a couple of empty bobbins available.

This section forces you to think about the practicalities of the construction process. It's also a great opportunity to review and practice any techniques you feel less than confident about before you begin,  which nicely leads us to



The last section


Take notes 3


The last section, Sewing Machine Settings. Here we have listed the stitches and techniques you will be using in this project.  Complete the table based on the results of your test samples: Test your needle(s) and thread(s) on the off cuts from the fabric.  Begin with finding the settings for the straight stitch. Then practice each of the different stitches you are going to use and note the machine settings for each of them in turn. If you should need to loosen the bobbin tension use the image of a clock face to show the screw head position before and after (a quarter to, ten past …) 

If you wish, you can also add any other settings, depending on the options of your sewing machine and your own capabilities, of course!


By taking some time to consider and note down these different aspects you'll have done all the ground work, removed any guesswork and probably saved yourself a lot of time and heartache!



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